My friend, Sara Vivenzio, who moved to San Francisco several years ago, is one of the most intuitive cooks I’ve ever met. She talks about food like a raconteur spins a tale: Sara is constantly concocting meals and flavors in her mind in ways I never imagined.
When Sara moved to San Francisco, she left the ad biz to go into the cheese biz. Now, she owns and runs The Cheese School of San Francisco (www.cheeseschoolsf.com).
Sara started me on my “cheese course” obsession. For the past four years, I have served a cheese course at every pseudo-fancy meal I make. Naturally, I IMed Sara to get some suggestions for our dinner party.
First, here is Sara's advice on serving cheese:
1. Serve approximately ½ oz. of each cheese per person
2. Serve at room temperature – you can cut and plate each cheese with their accompaniments, cover plates with saran wrap, and keep to the side until ready to serve
3. Put a basket of bread on the table for those that want bread
4. Plate (and preferably consume) cheeses in the above order
Now here are Sara’s cheese recommendations:
Cheese #1: Robiola Tre Latte
(Substitution options: Two-milk Robiola, La Tur, Bonrus)
Type: Surface Ripened, Mixed Milk
Milk: Cow, Goat & Sheep
Region: Piedmont, Italy
Serve with cherry compote
Cheese #2: Pyrénées Brebis
(Substitution options: Abbaye de Belloc, Ossau Iraty)
Type: Semi-Hard
Milk: Sheep
Region: Pyrénées, France
Serve with marcona almonds
Cheese #3: Cato Corner Farm, Hooligan
(substitution options: Meadowcreek Dairy Grayson, Twig Farm Washed Rind, Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk)
Type: Washed Rind
Milk: Cow (Twig Farm Washed Rind is goat’s milk)
Region: Colchester, Connecticut*
Serve with stewed prunes or plum jam
*Grayson is from Galax, Virginia
Twig Farm Washed Wheel is from West Cornwall, Vermont
Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk is from Pt. Reyes, California
Friday, November 27, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
My Dangerous Dinner Party Habit / Dinner Party Main Course Recipes
- Short Ribs Braised in Beer and Buckwheat Honey
- Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon
- Kasha Varnishkes
I always cut out recipes from the Wednesday New York Times Dining section. I save recipes into my Epicurious and Food Network recipe boxes. But my eyes are always bigger than my planner.
I simply don’t have enough time to cook big meals. Which means I don’t make all those recipes I save. Every few weeks I have friends and family over and try my saved recipes for the first time.
Many cooks are mortified at the idea of serving never-tested food at a dinner party. But I think one of the talents of a good cook is an innate sense of which flavors go together. That’s why I love innovators like Bobby Flay—his recipes always combine unexpected tastes in new, interesting, sumptuous ways. A meal at one of his restaurants is a constant surprise to the palate.
Back to my dinner party menu.
I admit that not every dish I make is a hit. Many of the recipes I save and eventually try are deleted from my electronic recipe files. This is the only opportunity I have to try them. And I love the adventure.
For my upcoming dinner party, I’m making a combination of new, old, and never-tried recipes for the main course. Here’s the menu:
- Short Ribs Braised in Beer and Buckwheat Honey. I got this recipe from The New York Times a few years ago and made it for two consecutive Christmases.
- Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon. This is the recipe I never tried before from Epicurious.
- Kasha Varnishkes. This Jewish comfort food is from Grandma Sylvia’s recipe play book.
The recipes are below, along with a link to the original source.
Short Ribs Braised in Beer and Buckwheat Honey
http://bit.ly/7xNBI3
Adapted from Zeke Freeman at Bee Raw
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 5 pounds short ribs, trimmed
- Salt and pepper
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 6 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
- 1/3 cup buckwheat honey
- 12 ounces good ale
- 1 bay leaf
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the oil in a roasting pan set over medium-high heat. Season the ribs generously with salt and pepper and brown them on all sides, about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and decrease the heat to medium-low. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the mustard, honey, ale and bay leaf. Return the meat to the pan and coat with the sauce.
2. Bring the sauce to a simmer; cover the pan tightly with a lid or foil. Place in the oven and cook until the meat is very tender, 2 to 2 ½ hours. Remove the ribs, and skim as much fat as possible from the sauce. Serve the meat warm with some sauce.
Time to prep and cook: 3 hours
Serves 6
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon
http://bit.ly/5FxEMW
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 pounds small Brussels sprouts (each about 1 inch in diameter), trimmed, halved through root end
- 1 1/4 cups diced bacon (about 6 ounces)
- 1 lemon, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Cook Brussels sprouts in medium saucepan of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about five minutes. Drain.
2. Spread Brussels sprouts on rimmed baking sheet in single layer. Sprinkle with bacon, lemon slices, salt, and pepper; stir.
3. Roast Brussels sprouts until tender and beginning to brown, stirring every 10 minutes, about 30 minutes.
4. Transfer to bowl and serve.
Time to prep and cook: 45 minutes
Serves 6
Kasha Varnishkes
This recipe I found at About.com is almost the same as my Grandma Sylvia’s recipe.
http://bit.ly/7vDTFK
Ingredients
- 1 cup kasha buckwheat groats, medium granulation
- 1 egg, well beaten
- 2 tbls vegetable oil
- 1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped
- 2 cups chicken stock or use canned
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1 cup pasta bow ties
Directions
1. Mix the kasha with the beaten egg. Be sure all the grains are covered with egg. Place a medium non-stick frying pan on medium-high heat. Add the kasha to the pan and, using a wooden fork, flatten it out a bit, stirring and moving it about the pan until the egg dries and the grains have mostly separated. Set aside.
2. Place a pot of salted water on to boil for the pasta bow ties. (Do not cook them yet.)
3. In a 4-quart heavy stovetop covered casserole, heat the oil on a medium flame. Sauté the onions until clear. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the salt and pepper and the reserved kasha. Stir a bit and cover. Cook over low heat, stirring now and then, until the kasha is tender, about 10 minutes. If it is not done to your taste, cook for a few more minutes.
4. In the meantime, boil the pasta just until tender. Drain well and stir into the kasha.
Time to prep and cook: 45 minutes
Serves 4
- Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon
- Kasha Varnishkes
I always cut out recipes from the Wednesday New York Times Dining section. I save recipes into my Epicurious and Food Network recipe boxes. But my eyes are always bigger than my planner.
I simply don’t have enough time to cook big meals. Which means I don’t make all those recipes I save. Every few weeks I have friends and family over and try my saved recipes for the first time.
Many cooks are mortified at the idea of serving never-tested food at a dinner party. But I think one of the talents of a good cook is an innate sense of which flavors go together. That’s why I love innovators like Bobby Flay—his recipes always combine unexpected tastes in new, interesting, sumptuous ways. A meal at one of his restaurants is a constant surprise to the palate.
Back to my dinner party menu.
I admit that not every dish I make is a hit. Many of the recipes I save and eventually try are deleted from my electronic recipe files. This is the only opportunity I have to try them. And I love the adventure.
For my upcoming dinner party, I’m making a combination of new, old, and never-tried recipes for the main course. Here’s the menu:
- Short Ribs Braised in Beer and Buckwheat Honey. I got this recipe from The New York Times a few years ago and made it for two consecutive Christmases.
- Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon. This is the recipe I never tried before from Epicurious.
- Kasha Varnishkes. This Jewish comfort food is from Grandma Sylvia’s recipe play book.
The recipes are below, along with a link to the original source.
Short Ribs Braised in Beer and Buckwheat Honey
http://bit.ly/7xNBI3
Adapted from Zeke Freeman at Bee Raw
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 5 pounds short ribs, trimmed
- Salt and pepper
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 6 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
- 1/3 cup buckwheat honey
- 12 ounces good ale
- 1 bay leaf
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the oil in a roasting pan set over medium-high heat. Season the ribs generously with salt and pepper and brown them on all sides, about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and decrease the heat to medium-low. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the mustard, honey, ale and bay leaf. Return the meat to the pan and coat with the sauce.
2. Bring the sauce to a simmer; cover the pan tightly with a lid or foil. Place in the oven and cook until the meat is very tender, 2 to 2 ½ hours. Remove the ribs, and skim as much fat as possible from the sauce. Serve the meat warm with some sauce.
Time to prep and cook: 3 hours
Serves 6
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon
http://bit.ly/5FxEMW
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 pounds small Brussels sprouts (each about 1 inch in diameter), trimmed, halved through root end
- 1 1/4 cups diced bacon (about 6 ounces)
- 1 lemon, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Cook Brussels sprouts in medium saucepan of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about five minutes. Drain.
2. Spread Brussels sprouts on rimmed baking sheet in single layer. Sprinkle with bacon, lemon slices, salt, and pepper; stir.
3. Roast Brussels sprouts until tender and beginning to brown, stirring every 10 minutes, about 30 minutes.
4. Transfer to bowl and serve.
Time to prep and cook: 45 minutes
Serves 6
Kasha Varnishkes
This recipe I found at About.com is almost the same as my Grandma Sylvia’s recipe.
http://bit.ly/7vDTFK
Ingredients
- 1 cup kasha buckwheat groats, medium granulation
- 1 egg, well beaten
- 2 tbls vegetable oil
- 1 yellow onion, peeled and chopped
- 2 cups chicken stock or use canned
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- 1 cup pasta bow ties
Directions
1. Mix the kasha with the beaten egg. Be sure all the grains are covered with egg. Place a medium non-stick frying pan on medium-high heat. Add the kasha to the pan and, using a wooden fork, flatten it out a bit, stirring and moving it about the pan until the egg dries and the grains have mostly separated. Set aside.
2. Place a pot of salted water on to boil for the pasta bow ties. (Do not cook them yet.)
3. In a 4-quart heavy stovetop covered casserole, heat the oil on a medium flame. Sauté the onions until clear. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the salt and pepper and the reserved kasha. Stir a bit and cover. Cook over low heat, stirring now and then, until the kasha is tender, about 10 minutes. If it is not done to your taste, cook for a few more minutes.
4. In the meantime, boil the pasta just until tender. Drain well and stir into the kasha.
Time to prep and cook: 45 minutes
Serves 4
Friday, November 13, 2009
We're Throwing a Dinner Party. Whee! (Recipe #1: Holiday Salad)
Since my sister Fran, the home economics teacher, always hosts Thanksgiving—and what a great T-giving she throws—my mind is free to plan my next fancy dinner. Usually it’s Christmas dinner with my in-laws. (I’m in a mixed marriage, so the Jew always cooks for Christmas.)
But this year Terri and I decided to invite some friends over for an early holiday celebration. On December 5th, Elizabeth and Doug (shameless plug for my music producer friend: www.dougepstein.com), Meg and Mark, and Donna and Vassily will be knocking on our front door expecting a delicious meal. Hopefully, we won’t disappoint.
Half the fun of throwing a dinner party is planning the menu.
In the next few postings I’m going to write about my menu thoughts—and hopefully get some input from you.
First the libation. This is a big wine group, and most of them know more about wines than I do. So I will consult with one of them once I determine what will be served.
However, I have decided to make a signature cocktail. My toastmaster work colleague Bob suggested a pomegranate martini, which is my favorite. He’s going to get me his friend’s tried-and-true recipe. I’ll post it once I determine if the recipe is as good as he says.
For the sit-down portion, I’ll start with Emeril’s holiday salad, which I’ve made several times before. It has goat cheese wrapped in prosciutto on a bed of lettuce, orange slices, red onion and pomegranates—all in a light vinagrette. It’s sweet and salty, with a touch of bitter lettuce and citrus… flavors that mix together wonderfully. Here’s a link to Emeril’s recipe (http://bit.ly/28jZhr). I’ve also copied the recipe at the end of this posting.
I usually serve this salad on round, wide platter instead of in a bowl. This allows me to show off the reds and greens. It’s the perfect start of a holiday feast.
In my next posting, I’ll reveal my main course and my dangerous dinner party habit.
Emeril Lagasse’s Holiday Salad
Ingredients
* 2 tablespoons pomegranate juice
* 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
* 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
* 2 shallots, minced
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
* 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
* 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
* 3 oranges, peeled and segmented
* 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
* 8 ounces goat cheese, cut crosswise into 6 slices
* 6 thin slices prosciutto
* 1 large head radicchio, rinsed, patted dry and torn into bite sized pieces
* 1 bunch arugula or watercress, rinsed, patted dry and cut int bite sized pieces
* 6 large leaves Bibb lettuce, rinsed and patted dry
* 1 head Belgian endive, stem removed and cut crosswise into thin shreds
* Pomegranate seeds, as garnish
Directions
In a small bowl, combine the pomegranate juice and orange zest, vinegar, shallots, salt, pepper and mustard and whisks thoroughly to combine. Add the oil in a steady stream and whisk until emulsified. Fold the segmented oranges and sliced onions into 1/4 cup of the dressing and toss to combine and set aside.
Wrap each slice of goat cheese in a slice of prosciutto. Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the wrapped cheeses and sear on both sides. Remove from the heat.
In a large salad bowl, combine the greens. Add the marinated orange sections and onion slices, and toss gently with enough extra dressing to coat evenly. Divide among salad plates and top each with a seared goat cheese package and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds. Spoon a little extra dressing over each salad and serve immediately.
But this year Terri and I decided to invite some friends over for an early holiday celebration. On December 5th, Elizabeth and Doug (shameless plug for my music producer friend: www.dougepstein.com), Meg and Mark, and Donna and Vassily will be knocking on our front door expecting a delicious meal. Hopefully, we won’t disappoint.
Half the fun of throwing a dinner party is planning the menu.
In the next few postings I’m going to write about my menu thoughts—and hopefully get some input from you.
First the libation. This is a big wine group, and most of them know more about wines than I do. So I will consult with one of them once I determine what will be served.
However, I have decided to make a signature cocktail. My toastmaster work colleague Bob suggested a pomegranate martini, which is my favorite. He’s going to get me his friend’s tried-and-true recipe. I’ll post it once I determine if the recipe is as good as he says.
For the sit-down portion, I’ll start with Emeril’s holiday salad, which I’ve made several times before. It has goat cheese wrapped in prosciutto on a bed of lettuce, orange slices, red onion and pomegranates—all in a light vinagrette. It’s sweet and salty, with a touch of bitter lettuce and citrus… flavors that mix together wonderfully. Here’s a link to Emeril’s recipe (http://bit.ly/28jZhr). I’ve also copied the recipe at the end of this posting.
I usually serve this salad on round, wide platter instead of in a bowl. This allows me to show off the reds and greens. It’s the perfect start of a holiday feast.
In my next posting, I’ll reveal my main course and my dangerous dinner party habit.
Emeril Lagasse’s Holiday Salad
Ingredients
* 2 tablespoons pomegranate juice
* 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
* 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
* 2 shallots, minced
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
* 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
* 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
* 3 oranges, peeled and segmented
* 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
* 8 ounces goat cheese, cut crosswise into 6 slices
* 6 thin slices prosciutto
* 1 large head radicchio, rinsed, patted dry and torn into bite sized pieces
* 1 bunch arugula or watercress, rinsed, patted dry and cut int bite sized pieces
* 6 large leaves Bibb lettuce, rinsed and patted dry
* 1 head Belgian endive, stem removed and cut crosswise into thin shreds
* Pomegranate seeds, as garnish
Directions
In a small bowl, combine the pomegranate juice and orange zest, vinegar, shallots, salt, pepper and mustard and whisks thoroughly to combine. Add the oil in a steady stream and whisk until emulsified. Fold the segmented oranges and sliced onions into 1/4 cup of the dressing and toss to combine and set aside.
Wrap each slice of goat cheese in a slice of prosciutto. Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the wrapped cheeses and sear on both sides. Remove from the heat.
In a large salad bowl, combine the greens. Add the marinated orange sections and onion slices, and toss gently with enough extra dressing to coat evenly. Divide among salad plates and top each with a seared goat cheese package and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds. Spoon a little extra dressing over each salad and serve immediately.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
My Barbecue Obsession
I love barbecue any time of the year. When I can’t be in front of my grill, I go to some terrific barbecue restaurants—and NYC has a huge selection.
Last week, for instance, on Halloween night we had barbecue with our next-door neighbors and good friends Karin and Harvey. While the ladies served the trick-or-treaters, Harvey and I drove to Dinosaur Barbecue (www.dinosaurbarbque.com) on West 131st St, just off the West Side Highway, next to Fairway. We brought back their family sampler with ribs, chicken, pulled pork and various deliciously flavored and overly buttered sides. We also got wings—mild honey wings for Terri (my wife) and hot Wango Tango wings for Harvey and Karin.
Whenever we take our girls (spectacular Sofie the senior and Kira, the fashionista frosh) to theatre in the city, we go to Virgils Barbecue (www.virgilsbbq.com) on West 44th Street. My favorite dish is the brisket sandwich. (On a tangent…I make a wicked bbq brisket. I promise to post the recipe the next time I make it.)
About two weeks ago I was working late. As I dashed through Grand Central Station to my train, I made a quick pit stop at Brother Jimmy’s (www.brotherjimmys.com) on the lower level. I ordered a pulled chicken wrap with bacon and melted cheese to go. So good! They recommended the mac & cheese side dish. For me, m&c is comfort food, so I ordered it and was not disappointed. There was too much food for an on-the-go meal, but it made for some great leftovers. There are several Brother Jimmy’s locations throughout the city, which can be found on their website.
Speaking of mac & cheese, the best in the city, in my opinion, is served at Danny Meyer’s bbq restaurant, Blue Smoke (www.bluesmoke.com). It’s pure velvet. I notice from their website that their sides are available for T-giving take-out. If you’re looking for a night out, Blue Smoke serves hot spicy bbq upstairs and cool jazz downstairs.
One last favorite is Dukes (www.dukesnyc.com). There’s one on 3rd Ave and 37th St, and one on E. 19th St. I’ve been to both, and prefer the one on 3rd Ave because it’s bigger (and noisier). Their mac & cheese it great, as are their sandwiches. My favorites are the Old Kentucky Club (grilled chicken, avocado, crispy bacon, melted swiss, lettuce, tomato and Russian dressing on a sesame bun), Carolina pulled port, Kansas City Special (bbq brisket) and the “Route 66” (turkey, bacon, Monterey jack, Russian dressing and cole slaw.)
Do you have a favorite bbq restaurant or dish? Post it here for all my readers.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
"Where They Always Know Your Name..."
After I wrote my “Ode to Barbecue Burgers,” that’s all I could think of. So I started building a list of my favorite barbecue joints in New York City.
But first…I interrupt my bbq series for this very important (at least in my mind) message about the Starbucks near my office at 41st Street and 3rd Avenue.
Remember the TV show “Cheers!” Whenever Norm walked in the bar everyone shouted his name. That’s the way I feel every morning when I stop in for my morning Venti.
I imagine it’s the smallest Starbuck ever—probably just 10 or 12 feet wide and maybe 20 feet long. But the employees’ good spirits are ginormous.
Morning is the busiest time, and there’s usually five people working behind the counter, and one restocking. There’s not much room. They bump and kid around with each other. Considering they have to get up very early to be at work, these people are in remarkably great spirits. When someone they recognize walks in, they say hi by name, and often ask something personal. By the time that customer gets to the counter, his or her beverage is ready.
It’s a happy place—the perfect place to start a workday. So here’s a shout out to Alisha, Anijah, Katrina, Khadejah, Dwayne, Frankie, Christina and everyone else who works there.
If you stop by, tell them you read their names in my blog.
But first…I interrupt my bbq series for this very important (at least in my mind) message about the Starbucks near my office at 41st Street and 3rd Avenue.
Remember the TV show “Cheers!” Whenever Norm walked in the bar everyone shouted his name. That’s the way I feel every morning when I stop in for my morning Venti.
I imagine it’s the smallest Starbuck ever—probably just 10 or 12 feet wide and maybe 20 feet long. But the employees’ good spirits are ginormous.
Morning is the busiest time, and there’s usually five people working behind the counter, and one restocking. There’s not much room. They bump and kid around with each other. Considering they have to get up very early to be at work, these people are in remarkably great spirits. When someone they recognize walks in, they say hi by name, and often ask something personal. By the time that customer gets to the counter, his or her beverage is ready.
It’s a happy place—the perfect place to start a workday. So here’s a shout out to Alisha, Anijah, Katrina, Khadejah, Dwayne, Frankie, Christina and everyone else who works there.
If you stop by, tell them you read their names in my blog.
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